Hampton Bay Fan Wiring Guide
This wiring diagram illustrates the connections for dual controls, a speed controller for the fan and a dimmer for the lights. The source is at the controllers and the. Hampton Bay Ceiling Fan Manuals. White Ceiling Fan The sleek Hampton Bay Gazebo II 42 in. For greater air movement 26 lead wire for easier.
- Hampton Bay Fan Wiring Diagrams San Marino
- Hampton Bay Ceiling Fan Wiring Guide
- Hampton Bay Fan Wiring Diagram
–Check local regulations for restrictions and permit requirements before beginning electrical work– The user of this information is responsible for following all applicable regulations and best practices when performing electrical work. If the user is unable to perform electrical work themselves, a qualified electrician should be consulted.
–Most wiring diagrams on this site include a green dot representing the integrated grounding terminal found in most metal outlet boxes. However, some older metal boxes and most plastic boxes don't have a terminal like this. –By code, the number of conductors allowed in a box are limited depending on its size.
Conductors include wires, devices like switches and receptacles, and some other metal parts. Check here to allowed in a box before adding new wiring, etc. NOTE: The hot wire to the fan in a fan/light kit will usually be black and the light wire will be blue. The white wire is usually the neutral which is always connected directly to the source neutral, either at the source or through a splice in the switch box. The white wire may also be used to carry current when necessary. In these cases, it should be wrapped with electrical tape to mark it as hot. The ground wires will be green and/or bare copper.
The ground should be spliced with a short piece of wire and connected to each device and outlet box that has a grounding terminal. In these drawing the brass colored terminal represent the hot side of the device and the silver colored terminal represent the neutral. Ground wires and terminals are in green. This wiring diagram illustrates the connections for dual controls, a speed controller for the fan and a dimmer for the lights. The source is at the controllers and the input of each is. From the controllers, 3-wire cable runs to the ceiling outlet box. The black wire is splice to the output on the speed controller and to the black, fan wire at the other end.
The red wire is spliced to the output on the dimmer and to the blue, light wire at the other end. The neutral from the source is spliced in the switch box with the white wire, and to the neutral wire on the ceiling fixture at the other end. Source at Fixture This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture.
Three-wire cable runs from there to the controllers. The neutral wire from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan/light. The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end.
The white wire is wrapped with black tape to identify it as hot. The black wire connects the fan to the speed controller. The red wire connects the light to the dimmer. This is the updated wiring for this arrangement, with a 2-wire cable added between the fan/light and switches.
Hampton Bay Fan Wiring Diagrams San Marino
The white wire is no longer used for hot and the source neutral is run through to the switch box to satisfy the 2011 NEC requirement of a neutral wire in all switch boxes. All other wiring is the same as above. Wiring a Fan/Light Kit to 3-Way Switches To wire a 3-way switch circuit that controls both the fan and the light, use this diagram. As with all 3-way circuits, the common on one switch is connected to the hot source wire from the circuit. The common on the second 3-way switch is connected to the hot wires on the fan/light. Splice both the fan and the light hot wires together with the common wire from the SW2.
The traveler wires are spliced together in the ceiling fixture box. To control the fan and light separately, a builtin switch such as a pull chain or remote control is required on the fan/light.
Wiring a Dimmer to a Fan/Light Kit This wiring arrangement allows for lowering the lights with a dimmer and controlling the fan with the builtin pull chain. The source is at the ceiling outlet box and 3-wire cable runs from there to the switch box. The neutral from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan kit and the cable, running it through to the switch box.
The hot source is spliced to the black, fan wire and the black wire running to the dimmer. At the other end, the black cable wire is spliced to one of the hot dimmer wires, it doesn't matter which one. The other dimmer wire is spliced to the red wire in the switch box which is spliced to the blue, light wire at the other end. Wiring a Switch Loop Use this wiring when the source is at the fixture and you want to control the feed to both components with the same switch. Three-wire cable runs from the fan to the switch box and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire and to the fan neutral. The source hot is spliced to the red wire which is connected to the bottom terminals on the switch at the other end.
The black wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch which runs power back to the fan where it is spliced to both the black and blue fan wires. Here the source is at the fan/light and a switch loop runs to the wall switch. The source is wired directly to the fan and spliced through to the switch. With this arrangement the light is controlled with the switch and the fan is hardwired for pull-chain control. Source at the Switch In this wiring, the source is at the switch and 3-wire cable runs from there to the fan/light. The switch controls the light and the source is spliced through to the fan.
With this arrangement, the fan is controlled by a pull-chain on the motor housing and the light is controlled with the switch. The neutral and ground wires are also spliced through to the fan/light. Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there. The hot source is connected directly to the bottom terminal on the switch. Two-wire cable runs from there to the ceiling fan.
Hampton Bay Ceiling Fan Wiring Guide
The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch and spliced to the black and blue wires at the fan at the other end. The neutral source and ground are spliced through to the white and ground connections at the fan. Wiring for an Exhaust Fan To wire an exhaust fan to a wall switch, use this diagram.
These fans usually come with a small electrical connection box welded to the side of the housing. There will be a cover on the connection box that fastens with a small screw. Open it, pop the plug out of one of the wire holes and thread a wire clamp into it. Run the cable through the clamp and tighten it down. Splice the cable wires to the fan wires using a pigtail splice and a wire nut.
Hampton Bay Fan Wiring Diagram
Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one. Here the exhaust fan is controlled by a timer instead of a switch. There should be two hot wires and a ground coming out of the timer casing, splice one of these to the hot source. Spice the second to the black, cable wire running to the fan. Splice the source neutral to the white cable wire and the ground to the ground wires.
At the fan splice the wires, matching the colors of each. In this arrangement a light fixture and exhaust fan are wired to the same source. The light is controlled with a single-pole switch and the fan controlled with a timer as in the previous drawing. The hot source is spliced to each controlling device and the output of the controllers are connected as in the previous diagrams on this page. Setting Ceiling Fan Direction Ceiling fans can be set to rotate in either of two directions. This function allows for more efficient cooling in the summer and for circulating heat in the room during the winter. Fan blades are set in a slanting posture so they catch the air as they spin.
The slant is down to the right and up to the left. With this attitude, a counterclockwise spin will force air down into the room creating a cooling breeze.
Clockwise rotation will pull air up to the ceiling, disturbing the warm air collected there and circulating it throughout the room to warm things up. Usually there is a small sliding switch on the side of the motor housing that will control the fan direction. But which way should you slide the switch for proper rotation? In most cases sliding the switch down will set counterclockwise spin, while sliding it up will set clockwise spin.
So, the answer is: down in summer and up in winter. Choosing and Installing a Ceiling Fan The right size ceiling fan for your room depends on more than just the square footage or your area. Furniture, normal ambient temperature for the room, and ceiling height will all have an effect on the efficiency of the fan you choose.
As a general rule, you can start with the recommended fan for a given room size as follows: For a large room of 15'x15' or more, choose a ceiling fan with a blade span of 52, 56 or 60 inches. For a 12'x12' room, go with 44 to 48 inches of blade span, and for small rooms of 8'x8' or so, a blade span of 36 inches should do the trick. Check your room space and install your fan to be 7.5 feet from the floor and 9.5 inches from the ceiling. The distance to the nearest wall should be.5 times the span of the fan blades.
If you're installing more than one ceiling fan in a room or hall, set the distance between the two at 2 times the blade span.