Manual 500 Skandic
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Jul 9, 2018 - Tue, 03 Jul 2018 02:03:00. GMT ski doo skandic 500 pdf - View and Download. Ski-doo Skandic series operator's manual online. TOURING E/LE/SLE - FORMULA S/SL - FORMULA DELUXE 380/500 - SKANDIC 380/500-- download this manual. Snowmobiles Ski Doo Download Service and Repair Manuals. A high quality PDF service manual for a Ski-Doo Skandic 500 1996. The repair manual download will show you every nut and bolt on your machine and will direct you on every mechanical procedure imaginable.
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Unc Policy Manual 500.1(c)
I'm a noobie here, and just bought my first sled two days ago. It's a 1995 skandic 500. I've read through the faq's and related posts on here and am confused as I've seen it said repeatedly the 1995 was a blunt nosed machine and the chassis design changed in 1996. My machine looks like the pic I've seen of a 96, well if it had a windscreen Asside from the missing windscreen and torn seat, I'm suprised that it looks as good as it does given there are 9300 miles on the odo. We've had a heavy snow year so I'm planning to put a paddle track on it, I picked up one taken off a summit, so should be good to go with a 136X15 w/ 1 1/2' paddles. I figure while changing out the track I'll inspect the drive train and likely change out the bearings on the jackshaft and chaincase as I've been advised to do. Any other paticular areas I should be inspecting on the machine?
It's primary use will be to access remote land and if I buy the land, haul in building materials and supplies. Thanks, this looks like a great forum! Well I got it fired up tonight and figured I'd take it into the garage to thaw out. Disconcerting discovery #1, something is hinky with the backup switch or horn, as sometimes the putting it in reverse kills the lights.
I also had trouble restarting it until I ran the reverse back in and out. Disconcerting discovery #2 is a bit more disconcerting. When I pulled the dipstick on the chaincase it looked like it was gooped up with silver anti seize. Repeated dips of the magnetic tip yieled more bits of metal, but apparently no or very little oil. Guess it's a good thing I was planning to swap out track, as it looks like the chain case will need a thorough inspection and possible rebuild.
I had a feeling this $400 machine would hit $1000 sooner than later, looks like sooner. Got the track for $225, so only $375 to go.
Findings: the reverse gears were rubbing on eachother and eating into eachother, but probably salvagable. There is a hub with a spring that goes on the main gear and it was completely loose, which is probably why the reverse gears were chawing on eachother. On the primary reduction gears, the 21t gear at the top looks fine, the 44tooth on the bottom looks like somebody tried to beat each tooth off with a hammer So, I figure I'll replace the 21t, 44t and chain. Clean up the burrs on the reverse gears and replace the bearings and seals. Findings: the reverse gears were rubbing on eachother and eating into eachother, but probably salvagable. There is a hub with a spring that goes on the main gear and it was completely loose, which is probably why the reverse gears were chawing on eachother. On the primary reduction gears, the 21t gear at the top looks fine, the 44tooth on the bottom looks like somebody tried to beat each tooth off with a hammer So, I figure I'll replace the 21t, 44t and chain.
Clean up the burrs on the reverse gears and replace the bearings and seals. That sounds prudent, I would say you caught it just in time. Post some photos of your new mule, there aren't many shots of the S 2000 Skandics floating around. I think I'll wait until the re-build is done before posting pics. I got out the gearbox and unfortunately where the idler gear shaft threads in there is a crack The thought of replacing the bearings, seals and few gears wasn't bumming me too much, but if I have to replace the whole gear box that is a bit of a downer. We do have a snogo salvage yard so hopefully I can find the parts I need. I pulled the whole unercareage out.
All the idler bearings are pretty much shot, the shock absorber spring was broken, and an aluminum rod the suspension pivots on was worn oval due to I imagine not having been greased. I guess on the upside when I get it back together I'll have an almost totally rebuilt machine.
Hopefully I can get a season out of the engine before rebuilding it The speedo cable was broken at the drive shaft end, so it has at least 9300 miles. Oh well, no better way to learn to wrench on a machine that tearing one apart to rebuild it. And much better to do the rebuild in a heated lighted garage vs. On the side of the trail at -30 in the dark. Well I finally got cleared up on my confusion on the sled as I kept reading here that the s series skandics didn't come out until 1996, but my tunnel is stamped 1995. Apparently the 1996 model year came out in 1995, or rather was manufactured in 1995. Well my $400 sled is now up a bit over $1000, I knew that would happen So far my upgrades/replacements include: Used paddle track New bearings for the idlers and jackhaft New idlers to replace mismatched ones New Hifax New belt New suspension pivot Used 44t gear for chaincase Used shock for the rear suspension Used inside cover for chaincase Used service manual (I think it'll get alot of use) Still need to get a windscreen and have the seat recovered, that should put me out another couple hundred $ and I'm sure the engine will need an overhaul sooner than later.
I'll try and post some pictures of the carnage. Let me explain the chassis differences and the manufacturing dates. (1) Dates: If your sled was manufactured after June 1, 1995, it is considered a 1996 model.
(2) Skandic Chassis: If you are using a Summit track on a Skandic, then you have a 'narrow track' Skandic instead of the 'Wide Track' Skandic, or Skandic WT as it is referred to here. Most owners on this forum have wide track (20') or super wide track (24') models of the Skandic, but we are more than happy to dialogue with you on this sled as well. Your sled is built on the S2000 chassis and other than minor differences, is very similar to the Touring L/LE/SLE models of the same model years. Many of us started out on models like yours before moving up to the WT's. Your sled is a good one that is clutched very well for hard work; in these model years Ski-doo's Touring's and Skandic's were much greater work sleds compared to the competitions Panthers, Transports and Touring 550's. It will serve you well once you straighten out the woes that you have identified. Don't fret the chaincase stuff too bad.
I have seen plenty of sleds come in with nothing but water in the box. Change it out and keep checking it for water infiltration throughout the season.