Hesston Pt 10 Repair Manual
Hesston PT-7, PT-10, PT-12 Mower Conditioner Manuals Our manuals have Free Shipping and Guaranteed Lowest Prices. Parts, Owners and Service Manuals are typically available for your Hesston PT-7, PT-10, PT-12 Mower Conditioner. Please see availability below. Which Manual Do I Need?
Hesston PT - Buy Hesston PT-7, PT-10, PT-12 Mower Conditioner manuals and get Free Shipping. OEM Parts, Owners, Service and Repair Manuals are available. This is the operator's manual for the Hesston PT10 Mower/ Conditioner. This manual contains information on operating, maintaining, and troubleshooting your Hesston machine.Four For the Price of One!
There are 3 main types of Hesston Mower Conditioner manuals, each with a specific purpose. Some manuals combine types (i.e. Parts + Operators, etc.), but the basic function of the manual types remain the same and are as follows:. Service Manual (SVC) - The service manual (a.k.a. Shop manual or Repair manual) tells you how to take the Hesston Mower Conditioner apart, fix it, and put it back together. It is written in the language of a mechanic and may include valuable detailed information such as specifications, torques, ranges, etc.
If you are serious about repairs or restoring, you need the service manual. Parts Manual (PTS) - The parts manual has exploded views of all parts on the Mower Conditioner giving great detail on assembly and disassembly. It also includes a guide for ordering parts. It picks up where the service manual leaves off. If you do your own repairs, you need the parts manual. Operators Manual (OPT) - The operators manual (a.k.a.
Owners manual) is the book that came OEM from the manufacturer when the Hesston PT-7, PT-10, PT-12 Mower Conditioner was purchased. It gives the owner/operator instructions, shift patterns, capacities (anti freeze, crankcase, oil, hydraulic, etc.) and adjustment procedures (brakes, clutch, etc.). This book is a critical tool for operating and maintaining your machine. Complete Kits - Get all the manuals for your PT-7, PT-10, PT-12 Mower Conditioner plus a few other perks and ensure you will not be missing critical information in the middle of your repair job. See below for availability.
The PT-10 was built in two models. The later is by far the best. The earlier models have a sickle drive similar to a tie-rod on a car's steering mechanism. These are the models to stay away from. The later have a drive with a yoke and u-joint, these are by far the better. The two plates that move the sickle have 60 degree bevels cut into them resembling a lug nut on a car.
As long as these bolts are kept tight and guards and sickle are kept in good shape this machine will run forever. They have a tendency to take the seals out of the gearbox so check lube often. I have been cutting approximately 40 acres of hay with a PT-10 I purchased seven years ago for $400 US with minimal expense. I don't think it owes me anything! I use a PT-10 and have had fairly good luck with it. They can't be pushed or they'll plug but mine cuts quite well. The others are right about the knife drive.
On mine, the 2 plates that hold the knife and counterweight kept loosening and breaking bolts last summer. After talking myself out of welding everything into one piece I went to the local machinist and he drilled and put in 'lynch'(??) pins to keep the nuts tight and no further problems (yet). The tension setup needs much to be desired as cables seem to break on mine regularly and its a nightmare to hook the cables to the springs. After 3rd strike I gave up and run with no tension.
Works OK but plugs easier. I just care about 'knockin' 'er down' when June 1 rolls around so its the cutting I'm after. I paid $500 Canadian which is about $300 American and wouldn't pay much more than that unless it was real pretty. I use a Fergie FE35 which is plenty of power. As long as you know its limitations you can have good results.
I use a PT-10 and have had fairly good luck with it. They can't be pushed or they'll plug but mine cuts quite well. The others are right about the knife drive. On mine, the 2 plates that hold the knife and counterweight kept loosening and breaking bolts last summer. After talking myself out of welding everything into one piece I went to the local machinist and he drilled and put in 'lynch'(??) pins to keep the nuts tight and no further problems (yet). The tension setup needs much to be desired as cables seem to break on mine regularly and its a nightmare to hook the cables to the springs. After 3rd strike I gave up and run with no tension.
Works OK but plugs easier. I just care about 'knockin' 'er down' when June 1 rolls around so its the cutting I'm after. I paid $500 Canadian which is about $300 American and wouldn't pay much more than that unless it was real pretty. I use a Fergie FE35 which is plenty of power. As long as you know its limitations you can have good results. I have had a PT-10 and two PT-7's, they are the same thing except for width, something to remember if you need parts.
These machines work well but the knife drive and knife head kind of fragile, and require constant attention. In my opinion the tires are not wide enough for the weight in soft ground, and there is no room for bigger ones.
If you are looking at a machine to buy, examine the knife drive very carefully. Look for signs of a serious explosion, and be sure the length adjustment on the pitman rod hasn't been welded. Sight down the length of the knife, if the machine has been abused in rough ground, the middle will be humped up, making the knife run hard, and putting more stress on the drive. Take a prybar and see if there is any looseness in the roll bearings, especially the one on the left hand side of the bottom roll, as this one gets pounded by the knife drive. Another place that wears is the pivot where the lift arm connects to the side of the header, more likely on the left side than the right.
Hesston Pt 10 Parts Manual
This can be cured by welding in a patch, and using a new bolt. I would not pay more than $3-400 for a PT-10, there are a lot of newer machines available for $1000-1500, since many people are changing to disc mowers, at least around here. I am currently using a Hesston 1091, that I got last year for $1200.
It is a much heavier machine, about 3500 lbs. Something you should think about if you are using a light tractor.The PT-10 is about 1000 lbs.
Most of the sickle mowers like these will run on 35-40 Horsepower, so tractor weight and brakes are the more important consideration especially on hilly terrain. The 1091 even pushes my Farmall M (6500 with loaded tires and wheelweights). I have had a PT-10 and two PT-7's, they are the same thing except for width, something to remember if you need parts. These machines work well but the knife drive and knife head kind of fragile, and require constant attention. In my opinion the tires are not wide enough for the weight in soft ground, and there is no room for bigger ones. If you are looking at a machine to buy, examine the knife drive very carefully.
Look for signs of a serious explosion, and be sure the length adjustment on the pitman rod hasn't been welded. Snapper series 5 service manual. Sight down the length of the knife, if the machine has been abused in rough ground, the middle will be humped up, making the knife run hard, and putting more stress on the drive.
Take a prybar and see if there is any looseness in the roll bearings, especially the one on the left hand side of the bottom roll, as this one gets pounded by the knife drive. Another place that wears is the pivot where the lift arm connects to the side of the header, more likely on the left side than the right. This can be cured by welding in a patch, and using a new bolt. I would not pay more than $3-400 for a PT-10, there are a lot of newer machines available for $1000-1500, since many people are changing to disc mowers, at least around here. I am currently using a Hesston 1091, that I got last year for $1200.
It is a much heavier machine, about 3500 lbs. Something you should think about if you are using a light tractor.The PT-10 is about 1000 lbs. Most of the sickle mowers like these will run on 35-40 Horsepower, so tractor weight and brakes are the more important consideration especially on hilly terrain. The 1091 even pushes my Farmall M (6500 with loaded tires and wheelweights).